Chef's Table: Legends

Can the show be hagiographic at times, and a bit pretentious at others? Sure. .... But the episodes’ directors and the show’s producers do make sure they provide a complete picture of the episode’s featured chef.

While Legends may appear to be just hagiography – and there is indeed a great deal of kissing the ring – over the course of the series it does make a compelling case that what these four chefs have done is more than just amusing bouches.

Mr. Keller’s episode 3 probably has the best story in a purely narrative sense, a culinary rags-to-riches tale that might be better described as a tale of SpaghettiOs and Kraft mac and cheese to sautéed foie gras and salmon tartare cornets. But all four of the subjects are fascinating people. And Mr. Gelb’s series is photographed with such a lush appreciation of the food on display that viewers can almost taste it—“almost” being hardly good enough.

Basically, it’s fun to watch genius at work.